Introduction to Shoemaking, Fall 2017, Instructor: Anne-Marika Verplough Chassé


Classic White Derby (2017)

A handmade pair of shoes featuring a stacked leather heel with a cemented construction.


Classic White Derby

Prompt

Timeline: 6 weeks

Design and create a shoe or pair of shoes primarily using leather and a cemented construction.

Process

I started by experimenting with various patterns for different shoe types before proceeding with a derby-style shoe. I created a standard from a pattern drawn on the last in order to be able to make the pattern sections for my shoes.

Classic White Derby (2017)
Classic White Derby (2017)
Classic White Derby (2017)

After cutting out the pattern pieces, I skived the necessary sections in order to prevent bulges in the final shoe. Next came sewing the lining to the upper.

Classic White Derby (2017)
Classic White Derby (2017)

After sewing all the parts together, I trimmed the excess lining, punched the lace holes, and laced the uppers to prepare for the lasting process.

Classic White Derby (2017)
Classic White Derby (2017)

I then proceeded with securing the upper to the last.

Classic White Derby (2017)
Classic White Derby (2017)
Classic White Derby (2017)

For the soling process, I placed a shank under the arch and filled the bottom with cork. I then cemented leather to the bottom of the shoe for the outsole and heel.

Classic White Derby (2017)
Classic White Derby (2017)
Classic White Derby (2017)

I finished the leather outsole and heel with a natural wax finish after glassing and sanding. For the insole, I used a thinner piece of leather and sewed around the edge as an added detail.

Classic White Derby (2017)
Classic White Derby (2017)
Classic White Derby (2017)
Classic White Derby (2017)
Classic White Derby (2017)